By FlamesAdmin, on August 30th, 2010

Each month I will participate in a challenge with a handful of my blogging BBQ friends to incorporate the same four or five announced ingredients into a meal. The only rule is that the chosen protein must be cooked outdoors. It should be interesting to see all of their creative culinary interpretations based on the basket of ingredients each month. At the end of this post, below the gallery, you will find a brief description of their blogs and links to their great creations. Don’t miss them!
This month’s Ingredient Challenge was to create a meal featuring four components:
- Fish
- Couscous
- Figs
- Eggplant
These ingredients immediately brought the Mediterranean to mind. For inspiration, I took a stroll through our urban garden and a quick trip to my favorite fishmonger, Seafood Center on Clement in San Francisco. In the garden, the first of our figs on our new trees were ripe and our summer crop of lemons were ready for harvesting. At Seafood Center, the Sea Bream looked particularly fresh and the owner assured me that they would have a fresh-caught shipment of glassy-eyed Sea Bream in on Thursday morning in time for my planned cook.



With these ingredients in mind I set off to create my “Tour of the Mediterranean” menu. This conceptual tour starts at the northwest end of Mediterranean in the Valencia region of Spain, takes us to it’s far eastern end in Israel, and finishes in Tunisia in the South.
Valencia is well known for it’s fresh seafood, citrus and fruit groves and also for saffron accented dishes. In this spirit, I grilled the Sea Bream stuffed with fresh oranges and served it with a colorful and beautifully scented fig, orange, and saffron butter.
I have wonderful memories of long walks with my wife Recha through the olive groves of Northern Israel during a trip last fall where she had previously spent a year on a Kibbutz. The olives and olive oil of that region are amazing and with this inspiration I created an Oliveto Israeli Couscous dish. In Israel the couscous is extra large seminola flour pearls with a satisfying al dente texture. I flavored this couscous with a green olive, caper, and anchovy mix that I call “Oliveto”, and added additional texture and flavor with grilled cherry tomatoes and miniature fresh mozzarella balls.
Finally, I created a punchy grilled summer squash dish with Eggplant, colorful Zephyr squash, zucchini, and red peppers all flavored with the head-spinning Tunisian spice mix called harissa which is a spicy, fragrant blend packed full of piri piri peppers and earth spices such as caraway, coriander, and cumin seed.
This outdoor cook was a fun one on a beautiful sunny day. For cooking flexibility I built fires on both my large Big Green Egg ceramic cooker and my 26″ Weber one-touch gold. When the fish and vegetables came off the grill I plated it all rustic family style on a single platter. The vibrant, fresh and earthy Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flavors were wonderful together. The fragrant fig, orange and saffron butter was simply amazing on top of the fresh and mild sea bream and I’m sure that we will find all kinds of new uses for that flavorful butter in our kitchen.
This themed Tour of the Mediterranean made us truly feel like we were having a festive meal celebrating the bounty of the sea and the summer season.
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Grilled Sea Bream with Fig, Orange, and Saffron Butter (Serves 2-3)
Ingredients:
- 2 large oranges, one zested and juiced and one sliced into thin round sections
- 4 Black Mission Figs, pink flesh spooned out of skins and chopped into paste
- 1/2 teaspoon champagne vinegar (can substitute apple cider vinegar)
- 1 pinch (about 0.2 grams) saffron threads crumbled
- 1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened at room temperature
- Coarse sea salt
- 1 whole sea bream, red snapper, or striped bass (about 1.5-2 pounds), gutted, cleaned, top fin cut off (For a searchable sustainable fish database click HERE)
- Nonstick vegetable oil spray or grapeseed oil
Directions:
Fig, Orange and Saffron Butter (Can be made several days ahead)
- Place 6 Tbs fresh orange juice in small saucepan and reduce over low heat to 2 Tbs. Cool, and stir in pinch of orange zest, fig paste, vinegar, and saffron.
- Place butter in a mixing bowl and use a rubber spatula to soften until it is very spreadable. Add the fig and saffron mixture and mix until thoroughly combined.
- Place butter mixture on a sheet of plastic wrap. Fold over plastic, shape into a log, and twist the ends to seal. Place in the freezer to harden. It will keep several weeks in the freezer if well sealed. Cut off rounds as needed and refreeze.
Grilled Sea Bream
- Cut diagonal slits on both sides of fish at 1.5-inch intervals. Sprinkle fresh orange juice and salt into slits and cavity of fish. Stuff cavity with orange slices.
- Spray fish basket (or grate – away from grill if not using basket) with nonstick spray. Place fish in basket on the grate directly over medium-high coals/flame. Place saucepan with fig butter at edge of grill to warm through. Grill fish until just opaque in center, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer to serving platter. Serve with warm seasoned fig butter accented with saffron threads on top.
Israeli Oliveto Couscous
Ingredients:
- 1 peeled garlic clove
- 1 cup green olives drained, pitted and coarsely chopped
- 1 tsp anchovy paste (optional)
- 1 Tbs drained and rinsed capers
- 1 tsp dijon mustard
- 1 dash red pepper flake
- 1 Tbs lemon juice
- 1/4 cup + 2 Tbs extra virgin olive oil
- 1 pint cherry tomatoes halved
- 1 shallot finely chopped
- 8 oz. dried Israeli couscous
- 2 cups low sodium chicken broth
- 4 oz. fresh mini mozzarella balls drained
- 2 Tbs basil chiffonade (long very thin strips)
Directions:
- Process garlic in food processor until finely chopped. Stop machine. Add 1/2 the chopped olives, anchovy paste, capers, dijon, pepper flake, and lemon juice. Pulse until blended but still coarsely chopped. Add olive oil slowly with machine running forming a coarse purée. Transfer to bowl, add remaining olives, and season to taste with sea salt. Cover and refrigerate. This oliveto mixture can be prepared up to 2 days in advance.
- Toss cherry tomatoes with 1 Tbs olive oil, season with sea salt, and grill over medium grill with occasional stirring until lightly charred and softened – about 15 minutes.
- Place 1 Tbs olive oil in medium sauce pot, saute shallot over low heat until translucent, add dry couscous with stirring for 2 minutes to toast, and add chicken stock. Cook over low heat covered for 10 minutes or until al dente. Uncover, fluff with a fork, and cool.
- Mix oliveto mixture, roasted tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil into couscous. Adjust seasoning with sea salt.
Tunisian Grilled Eggplant and Squash with Harissa Aioli
Ingredients:
- 1/2 cup + 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
- 2 cloves garlic very finely chopped
- 2 Tbs lemon juice
- 1 tsp honey
- 1 Tbs harissa powder or spread
- 1 red bell pepper cored, seeded, and quarter lengthwise
- 1 large eggplant (1.5 lbs) cut into round 1/2 thick rounds
- 1.5 lbs mixed summer squash (green/yellow zucchini, zephyr, patty pan, crookneck, or globe) halved lengthwise and then crosswise in 1″ sections
- 1/4 cup chopped cilantro
Directions:
- Whisk together olive oil, garlic, lemon juice, and honey until an emulsion is formed. Add harissa and season to taste with salt.
- Grill red pepper skin side down on high grill until darkly charred. Remove from grill, remove skin, and tear into 1″ pieces.
- Toss eggplant and squash with remaining oil and season with sea salt. Cook with turning over medium-high grill until lightly charred and cooked through.
- Plate eggplant, squash and peppers on serving platter, drizzle with harissa aioli, and sprinkle with cilantro. Serve with additional ailoi.

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Additional participants in this month’s Ingredient Challenge include:
The No Excuses BBQ website was started in January of 2009 as a way to record the author’s goal of barbecuing at least once a week throughout the year and showing the results to the world. Somewhere along the way things got out of control, and two years later the streak is intact and shows no sign of stopping anytime soon. In the process, No Excuses BBQ has become fairly popular and is listed as one of the top BBQ blogs on Alltop.com.
Larry Gaian of The BBQ Grail – ENTRY HERE
The BBQ Grail website was created in 2007, initially to document the author’s quest to find the perfect backyard BBQ experience. Since that time The BBQ Grail has become one of the more popular BBQ blogs on the internet and is listed on Alltop.com as one of the top BBQ blogs.
By FlamesAdmin, on August 14th, 2010
While down at the Wednesday night Castro farmer’s market I couldn’t help but notice all the stunning tomatoes at all the produce stalls. I picked up a few pounds of super ripe mini yellow and red cherry tomatoes to make of my favorite sauces – an oven roasted cherry tomato pasta sauce. We have also done this indirect on the grill which adds a wonderful smokey complexity to the roasted tomato flavors.
Continue reading Roasted Cherry Tomato Pasta Sauce
By FlamesAdmin, on August 7th, 2010
I admit it, I like gifts all wrapped up in pretty wrapping paper. And who doesn’t like a surprise?
I recently won the “You Know, For Kids” themed cooking Throwdown with my ridiculous Tower of Funnel Cake entry over at BBQ Brethren website. As the winner, I got to name the next Throwdown theme and to keep things fun and creative I chose “With a Surprise Inside”. To make things even more fun, my friend Larry, guru of all things BBQ, decided to Throwdown against me and has already come up with a brilliant entry Asian Pigs in a Blanket so I wanted to make a good showing.
After throwing around a lot of crazy ideas with friends and my wife Recha, I decided to stuff a large brie wheel with smoked herbed lamb and honey pears and wrap it all up neatly in a puff pastry package. My idea was to finish it on the grill (indirect heat) until golden and melty.
Continue reading Brie Wheel Stuffed with Smoked Lamb and Pears
By FlamesAdmin, on July 27th, 2010
We visited Chef Chris Cosentino’s Incanto in San Francisco with close friends on Saturday to celebrate my wife’s birthday. Chris is renowned for his outstanding contempory-rustic Italian cuisine featuring all parts of the animal and his related “Whole Animal” ethic where little is wasted. He manages to use most internal organs, bones, head, and feet along with the more conventional cuts of meat. Beyond the whole animal ethic he champions sustainable local food production and humane farm animal care. You might also know Chef Cosentino from his epic Iron Chef battles with Mario Batali and Michael Symon.
Continue reading Birthday Celebration at Chris Cosentino’s Incanto
By FlamesAdmin, on July 18th, 2010

I will never order delivery pizza (sober). In our home we have periodically instated a weekly pizza night to enjoy this great food and I have become of the mind that the best pizzas are made at home. This claim may sound insane considering the recent renaissance of artisanal pizza in San Francisco – think Little Star, Flour + Water, Pauline’s, Pizza Delfina, and A16 but with the right tools and ingredients you can make top notch pies and get the toppings just the way you like them. Many of my pizza secrets are lifted straight from Peter Reinhart’s American Pie. He understands dough about as well as anyone and gives you the goods to do it right. If you are in a pinch you can buy store bought dough but it is never as good. If you have to go this route stop by one of the pizzerias that offers their fresh made or frozen dough for sale. In San Francisco Pauline’s has an excellent take out dough.
But one nagging detail is the oven. Perfect crisp and chewy pizza dough requires intense heat. Most of the high end pizza joints are using commercial pizza ovens that can reach 800-1000° F or higher and this gives amazing results with the crust. I’ll bet your home oven won’t reach 600° F cranking it in cleaning mode on a hot day. My solution has come in the form of a ceramic cooker – in our case a big green egg. With a fresh dry load of lump charcoal and the dampers fully open I can bury the needle on the 750° F thermometer. The lump charcoal in the lower firebox burns up to 1200° F, and over this I place a ceramic “Plate Setter” to block the direct heat creating an indirect oven. On top of the plate setter I place a pizza stone on small ceramic blocks to keep the stone from becoming too hot (I use the green ceramic base feet that come with the BGE for this). To achieve the perfect balance of crisp crust and fully melted and slightly caramelized toppings I adjust the chamber temperature between 600 and 750+° F. The general rule is the more toppings you have the lower the temperature you will need to achieve the perfect crust/topping doneness. I am a topping minimalist so 700° F is usually spot on for me. At this chamber temperature the raised stone will hit around 550° F in a few minutes which creates a perfectly crisp crust.
Continue reading Grilled Chicken Pizza
By FlamesAdmin, on July 11th, 2010
This is a warning. If you read this post you may never sleep again until you get One. And if you get One you may never wake up again.
My friends over at BBQ Brethren, a top BBQ forum, have weekly cooking Throwdowns with themes ranging from conventional (Beef or Chicken) to wild (Offal or Mystery Meat). The winner gets bragging rights, a nice certificate, and is encouraged to create the next Throwdown topic. I managed to win the “With a Bone” Throwdown with my Orange Confit Pork Chop entry. For the next theme I announced “You Know, For Kids” – one of my favorite lines from the movie Hudsucker Proxy. I thought this would add a fun spin on the typical topics there and get parents cooking outdoors with their kids. Of course with my declaration of this theme I had to come up with an over the top entry so here it is.
Continue reading Tower of Fruit Funnel Cakes on a Bacon Weave
By FlamesAdmin, on June 27th, 2010

We always had Chinese sausage or lop chong, a traditional Chinese staple, in our grandparents kitchen when I was growing up. It is typically made of pork and pork fat and dried into long thumb-thick sticks. It has a nutty, earthy, and surprisingly sweet flavor that makes it great for balancing savory dishes. Its unique flavor comes from a blend of chinese wine, raw sugar, and earth spices such as anise and cinnamon.
A common breakfast dish in China is steamed sticky rice with Chinese sausage. My grandparents would often enjoy this for breakfast at the family table while my brother and I munched on our cereal. I grew to love this simple yet flavorful dish but somehow over time it faded from my routine.
I have always thought of Chinese sausage and rice as an interesting parallel to American sausage and starch recipes for breakfast – think biscuits and gravy, pancakes and sausage, or the classic sausage and egg on a biscuit. I thought I would satisfy my nostalgia and hankering for this old traditional treat and give it a modern spin to create the PRISS sandwich (Pacific Rim Sausage Sandwich). With the Western open-faced Sausage & Egg Biscuit sandwich in mind as a final form, I set off to recraft the Chinese classic.
Continue reading Grilled Pacific Rim Sausage Sandwich
By FlamesAdmin, on June 21st, 2010
We are always trying to eat food made from ingredients grown in our small urban garden and from the local farmer’s market down the hill. Between myself and my neighbor, a gentrified farmer with a well known Sonoma Farm, we have over 10 types of citrus and countless herbs. San Francisco weather is dynamic, often varying within any given neighborhood, and in our slice of the microclimate most of the fruit trees are bursting with ripe fruit and the herb boxes are raging with leaves and blooms in this early part of the summer.
For dinner we were inspired by two of our favorite types of Citrus: Kumquats and Valencia Oranges. We decided to use these beautifully bright and fresh ingredients along with some fragrant thyme to accent grilled pork. Extra inspiration came from the beautiful cookbook Seven Fires by Argentinean Francis Mallman who uses citrus confit in several of his seared meat preparations.
Continue reading Grilled Orange Confit Pork Chops
By FlamesAdmin, on June 1st, 2010

I made family dinner tonight on the ceramic cooker and decided to try a grilled peach souffle for dessert.
I was terrified that the souffle was going to fail because the fog starting rolling in 200 feet overhead twenty minutes before I put it on the egg. Humidity often spells death for souffle resulting in a sad looking deflated little lump. There is an amazing souffle restaurant in San Francisco, Cafe Jacqueline, that can always turn out perfect souffles regardless of the weather but I don’t have their secrets so I’m at the mercy of the weather. To cook, I grilled it at 400° F indirect for 14 minutes.
I didn’t get the best rise in the world (insert dirty joke here) but it did hold together well and had a velvety soft and delicate texture and a burst of juicy peach flavor. Peach soufflé, it’s what’s for dessert!
Continue reading Peach Soufflé on the Big Green Egg
By FlamesAdmin, on May 22nd, 2010

My wife, daughter and I had another great visit to the Wednesday night Castro Farmer’s market. We’ve made it a weekly ritual to walk down the hill and see what fresh new offerings coming out of ground in the farms in our area. As urban dewellers, it takes a bit of extra effort to stay connected to the origins of our foods and the changing seasons and we have found the farmers market is just the ticket.
We picked up fresh sweet corn, sweet peas, fava beans, leeks, red bell peppers, pearl onions, and some beautiful thick cut peppered bacon. I decided that it was the perfect makings of a grilled succotash casserole – a quintessential summer dish.
Continue reading Grilled Succotash Casserole with Bacon Gravy
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